A Trip down the East Side
It goes down the East Coast of the Island which is the absolute antithesis of the right turn. Here the sun does not set but the moon rises, as it has for all of living memory. Not much has changed on the East Side. Most of it is pretty much as it has been for all of living memory. For the people who live there or run their small businesses that is just fine. They are comfortable with Lonely Planet writing it off as "not much to see". That way it remains quiet and peaceful.
But your visit to Koh Chang would not be complete without at least a day trip from the beaches to explore the as yet undiscovered Koh Chang. The first thing you will find are flat roads in good condition. The construction trucks have not done their work here. You'll also find a lot less traffic. As you leave the ferries behind on your southward venture you'll arrive first in Dan Kao with a small beach on your left. You can stop off at Funky Hut for one of their "World Famous Funky Hut Burgers" or take a breather at "The Souk" beach bar and restaurant. Chanarkarn Resort also has a good Thai restaurant without any English spoken. Just before you leave Dan Kao you'll see Suan Chang Ban on your left, a new resort also with a small Thai restaurant.
Then it's into the open countryside where you'll see several small wooden houses and folks going about their daily deeds. After you pass the Hospital you'll enter Dan Mai, home of the Koh Chang Police HQ, the Administrative Offices and a small community living from fruit farming. After the hospital and before the Police Station you'll find the track off to the right to the Klong Nonsi waterfall, at this point in time still free. Well worth the trek. Almost opposite the Police Station, take the left turn down past the local school. who would welcome you as you pass by, and go down to the pier. You'll see a genuine fishing village without a single tourist attraction. Just about as local as you can get.
Then saunter slowly on where you'll find much of the same. Pristine jungle to your right and rubber trees and fruit plantations on your left with occasional passages along the cost. It's perfectly safe to wander down the tracks off to the left where you'll find a few red sand secluded beaches and millions of rai of land for sale. After about 18 km's you'll find a left turn to Long Beach. You have three options. First to head all the way to Long Beach where you will find the new Tree House and the Thai Royal Navy Memorial. Or you can take the left turn just after the Temple and head for Salak Kok, a most spectacular and secluded mangrove bay. There are sea kayaks there to rent so that you can go out and explore. There is also a new mangrove walkway if you prefer to remain firmly on dry land. The third option is to pass the turn to Long Beach and head for the end of the road and the Ant Bar. There you'll find an old codger with yarns as long as both of your arms; and a chance to walk into the jungle alone in relative safety.
Then head back to the main road and turn left again. Salak Phet awaits you. Strait on for the unspoiled fishing village and make sure you go all the way over the bridge to the dead end. As you head back out again turn left and you'll pass The Marina and eventually end up on a car park at Salak Phet Seafood, also well worth a visit for both the food and the views. There is quite a lot of development going on in the Salak Phet area and it's starting to change quite quickly.
You can see all this on one of our maps of the Salak Phet area. (If you go to the map it will open in a new window)
The bad news is that once you are down on the South East Coast you can't drive on and end up in Bang Bao although if you try you can climb up and get tantalizingly close! The road, scheduled for completion in July 2002 still is not. But never mind because on your way home, another Burger at Funky Hut will fortify you for the climb back over the hill and the stresses of life on the Wild Side.
Have fun because that's what it's all about.
Contributed by Funky Hut.
